Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
