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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.